Afghan Series I: bolani (stuffed bread)

The smells and habitual methods associated with certain foods can evoke powerful feelings and memories. Afghan food has been a reminder of a deep love I shared and then lost in a very painful way in my past. Even though five+ years have gone by since we parted (and I am happy in love now!), when I eat Afghan food I am flooded with memories of the man I once loved and learned how to cook it for. I learned his familial recipes during our years together to bring him comfort and joy when he was missing his family and homeland. And since we parted, I find that my encounter with Afghan food brings up pain and sorrow associated with the devastating outcome of our ending.

I want to be able to eat this food, and just enjoy it! Because Afghan food is amazing. Thus I have decided to take some time to move through my Afghan recipes as a final passage to healing and letting go of the painful parts of the past by reflecting on what was beautiful about the heart of it. Cooking and eating is memory… it can also be cathartic and healing.

Bolani with yellow heirloom tomato chutney

INGREDIENTS & METHOD

There are many ways to make classic Afghan recipes, depending on the region of origin. My past partner, a Pashtun, grew up in Kabul and I learned recipes based on how his mother and brother relayed information over the phone from afar.

For the dough (I usually did it by feel depending on volume of filling) For about 8 servings of bolani:

3 cups of all-purpose flour (I use half and half white and whole wheat)
1 tsp salt
2 Tbsp of vegetable based oil (plus more for cooking)
water as needed

Bring all together, mixing and kneeding the dough with your hands in a bowl… slowly adding water until you have a nice soft dough that holds together (not too sticky, not crumbly!) Kneed for about 5 to 7 minutes, and then let the dough rest covered for about 30 minutes while you prepare the filling.

For the filling:

In a mixing bowl, place two cups of mashed potato leftovers (or boil and mash 2 russets)
Add fresh chopped green chilis to taste (I finely chopped in 2, including the pith- the hot part)
A teaspoon each of salt, turmeric, ground cumin, some fresh ground pepper
1/2 cup of chopped fresh corriander
Optional: I added in a finely chopped/ sautéed leek

Mix all together.

Assembly:

Divide the dough into approximately 8 small balls. On a lightly flour-dusted counter, roll out your dough in a circle until about 1/4 inch thick. You can either place the filling on one half of the dough and fold over and pinch like a calzone before the final rolling. Or you can you place the filling in the middle and pinch the dough up around it into a purse as illustrated below. To avoid the filling from getting squeezed out at the seams when you roll it out a second time, through trial and error, I found this is the best method. You want to get the stuffed bread rolled back out to 1/4 to 1/2 an inch thick before cooking.

Stuffing and rolling the dough for bolani

A lightly oiled iron skillet works best for even heat distribution when grilling bolani. Eat it hot off the skillet, or keep them warmed in the oven while you make them.

For cooking:

Pre-heat a cast iron skilled to med-high and lightly brush with vegetable oil. I like to use avocado oil, but my past partner preferred sunflower oil. Once the pan is nice and hot, place your bolani on the pan. I actually lightly brush each side of the bread to get a nice crispy finish. Flip after approximately 2 minutes - keep watch so it doesn’t burn, but you want to get it slightly charred for the taste.

I keep them warmed on a cookie sheet in the oven under an old tea towel while I prepare the entire batch and then serve all together, usually as a lunch, a side dish or an hors d’eourve.

My past partner’s mother would get up before early morning prayers, and start preparing the bolani for breakfast. As soon as each bolani came off the pan, the family would divide it and devour it immediately, in its moment of crispy perfection.

SERVE WITH:

My past partner loved it served with classic Afghan green chutney (a puree of cilantro, mint, green chilis, garlic, lemon juice or vinegar and salt). I liked that green chutney mixed into yogurt. Another fine and favourite option is with a tomato-based chutney per below. (Chopped tomato, finely minced white onion and a green chilli, chopped cilantro, mint (dried if you don’t have fresh), salt and pepper.)

Enjoy!

Afghan Series I: bolani (stuffed bread)

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